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History
Pearls are most feminine and mystical amongst all jewelry. The pearl is a noble
and
 mystical
fruit of the seas, and the lakes. Where shellfish live, pearls are being
created. Also in fresh water. A pearl is born in an oyster by coincidence,
having a brilliant, yet a soft glow.
History tells about numerous legends about pearls, once the most precious
product on the face of this earth. There is the story about Cleopatra who,
to impress Marc Anthony, pulverized two pearls in a glass of wine, and drank it.
When calculating at today's value, this would represent a value of USD 12
million!
During the Renaissance, it was forbidden for civilians to even as much as own a
pearl. While conquering the New World, a true 'pearl rush' took place by
the lakes of Central America. Unfortunately, almost all fresh water
populations became extinct. And in 1916, one 'Jacques Cartier' became the
proud owner of a jewellery store on 5th Avenue, NY in exchange for...two pearl
necklaces.
Japanese Ingenuity
 The
Japanese Kokichi Mikimoto invents a method to get a pearl within everybody's
reach, and 'grows' pearls by implanting a foreign kernel into the flesh of an
oyster. As a natural response, the oyster builds a coat of mother-of-pearl
around the 'intruder', which can be harvested as a pearl, two to three years
later.
This is a cultivated pearl that is no different from another pearl, other then
the fact that it was bred by human intervention. Today, almost every pearl
is grown this way. Only 20% of all harvested pearls are used for
jewellery. Only 5% of those are regarded as Top Class.
Pearl Types
Akoya Pearls
The traditional classic from Japan, with a diameter between 2 to 9mm, and mostly
used for necklaces and jewellery. The Akoya oyster is also grown in China,
but lacks some of its brilliance.
South Sea Pearls
Big (9 to 20mm) and with a colour variety of white from Australia and Indonesia,
up to green-black pearls from French Polynesia.
Fresh Water Pearls
Sourcing from Japan, China, and the USA, and are relatively cheap. They
are much wanted because of their unique colours, and are highly popular amongst
the trendy designers.
Mabe
Irregular shapes with a flat back are Mabe pearls. From Japan, Indonesia
and Australia, that grow to the back of an oyster and that are used for rings
and earrings because of their flat side.
Real or Fake?
Real pearls, both natural as cultivated, feel somewhat cold first but rapidly
adapt to your body heat. A fake pearl always caries the temperature of the
environment, and feels somewhat lighter too.
When rubbing a real pearl against your teeth, you will experience a sandy
feeling, for you rub calcium with calcium. A fake pearl on the other hand feels
very smooth.
Pearl Quality
It is important to note that there is no internationally adopted standard for
rating pearls. Therefore you may find exaggerated scales (i.e. A-AAAA+) or
that AAA from one retailer does not equate to AAA from another.
For this reason, always make sure you look at exactly what each rating means
before buying your pearls. The following criteria is used to determine a pearls
quality:
Diameter and Weight
A pearl with a significant mother of pearl, compared to its kernel, will
guarantee the quality of the pearl. Bigger sizes are harder to grow, and are
therefore more precious. A pearl is measured in millimeters, for example
6.0 x 6.5 mm. The weight is mentioned in 'grain' (50mg).
Colour
The colour is determined by the oyster's shell. There are 7 colours known to
us: pink, silver, crème, gold, green, blue, and black. One chooses the
colour by its own skin: white-pink for a white skin, whereas crème coloured
pearls go perfect with a tinted skin.
Orient and Glow
By orient of iridescence, we express the 'rainbow' effect, as a result of
the quality, and the layers of mother-of-pearl, that seems to come from inside
the pearl.
Surface
The regularity of layers, smoothness of the surface, and possible flaws in
the structure that are caused during its growth, determine these essential
criteria.
Shape
The more round, the more perfect and valuable. Although some prefer pear
shaped, oval, or baroque pearls, which are always a source of inspiration for
the designers of pearl jewelry.
Size
The value of each pearl in its quality range depends on the diameter in
millimeters. Larger is rarer and more expensive.
Care and Cleaning Your Pearls
Due to the delicate and fragile nature of
pearls, proper care must be exercised. This will help to protect the lustre and
beauty of your pearls, while providing many years of enjoyment. Below are some
important tips to help ensure your pearls will remain beautiful for years to
come.
Store Pearls Separately From Other Jewelry
Pearls are typically much softer than gemstones and precious metals. If stored
with other jewelry, they can become easily scratched or damaged.
Store Pearls In Soft Material
To protect your pearls, store them in a soft cloth pouch, linen cloth, or soft
lined jewelry box. These will help prevent the pearls from being scratched or
damaged. Do not store your pearls in a plastic bag or excessively dry place
(next to a heater) as these could cause your pearls to become brittle or crack.
Minimize Contact With Personal Products
Hairspray, makeup, perfume, and other personal care products contain chemicals
that can harm the pearl's surface and dull the pearl's lustre. To minimize this
type of contact, use personal care products first before putting on pearls.
Minimize Contact With Perspiration
Perspiration contains natural acids that can harm the pearl's surface and dull
the pearl's lustre. To minimize this, remove pearls before exercising or doing
strenuous activity.
Clean Your Pearls After Wear
When you take your pearls off, gently wipe them with a soft damp cloth. This
will help to remove any build-up on the pearls. Make sure you do not use
anything abrasive as these may damage your pearls.
Periodically Wash Your Pearls
Washing your pearls periodically is the best way to help remove harmful
build-ups. Wash your pearls in soapy water using a mild liquid soap (not a
detergent). Once finished, gently rinse and place on soft towel or cloth to dry. Do not hang pearls to dry as this may stretch the silk thread.
Restring Your Pearls
You should have your pearls restrung periodically. If you wear your pearls
frequently, then you should have them restrung annually to prevent breakage. Pearls should be restrung with silk thread and knotted between each pearl. The
knot prevents the pearls from all falling of the thread if there is a breakage,
as well as prevents the pearls from chafing each other.
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